Navaherreros Garnacha de Bernabeleva · 2023

PAR92/100

4.8/5

4 reviews

It now seems an undeniable fact that Madrid wines are leaping up the rungs of the ladder in their rapid rise to the pinnacle of Spanish wine quality. Despite its decisive emergence in recent years, Bernabeleva's history dates back to 1923, with the acquisition of the estate which gave its name to the winery. Bernabeleva literally means 'the route of the bear', hence the house's very special logo: a little girl astride a bear. Respect for nature is paramount at Bernabeleva. The vineyards are treated with respect, in harmony with their surroundings, letting this be what determines the character of the wines. The vineyard is fertilised with the manure from their own cows and all the work done in the field is carried out following the lunar phases. The land can be discerned in all their wines, which are always mineral and honest-to-goodness. Navaherreros embodies the merits of the different terroirs to be found in San Martín de Valdeiglesias. Produced using the grapes from vines aged between 40 and 80 years old, collected from the individual parcels and vinified separately, each estate undergoes the best process for showcasing its distinctive features, whether it be through oak, concrete or stainless steel. Its low density and soft cherry colour seem to want to cover up all the character and power of this huge Madrid red. The slowness of its tears make us take a look at the label to check that its alcohol content is indeed high: 15%. However, there's nothing coarse or excessive in this Navaherreros. Its aromas are elegant, very fine; red fruits, orange peel, damp earth and exotic spices. There's also a touch of musk and dust. On the palate, right from the first contact it brings in an acidity that makes it taut, bestowing a deep verticality and juicy, "Garnacha-type" tannins which make it fuller. The finish, highlighting bitter hints, leaves behind it a very long suggestion of red fruits and toasty notes.

Nose

Fruits of the forest, Orange peel, Damp earth, Spices

Palate

Fruits of the forest, Bitter finish, Red fruit

Pairs with

Roast lamb, Cured cheeses, Cured meat

Drink

Serve between 14ºC and 16ºC

£25.61

About the vineyard[+]

The “unknown” wines of Madrid have been climbing up the sales charts in the last few years but the most notable rise has been in their quality, which has meant they have become increasingly more competitive against the rest of the Spanish internal market, reaching the position of being one of the prime sellers in Madrid. Their example quite disproves the theory that “fine wine” is only produced in certain parts of the country, as it is possible nowadays to start producing very interesting wines in areas where years ago any future for them would have seemed unthinkable. With the idea in mind of identifying one grape variety with one particular area and thus standing out in the market, some wineries have gone for the white indigenous Albillo variety that gives creamy, expressive wines with plenty of varietal character. As regards reds, the two varieties most extensively grown in the community are: Tempranillo and Garnacha which produce meaty, structured wines with a lengthy finish. The area under cultivation extends over the whole of the southern part of Madrid province, bordering on Castile-La Mancha. For the purpose of bringing out the expression of the terroir depending on where the vines are planted, the DO is divided into 3 sub-zones: San Martín de Valdeiglesias, Navalcarnero and Arganda. Despite having a continental climate and low rainfall in common, each sub-zone varies as to the type of soil: granite, coarse sand and clay, and brownish-grey.

£25.61