El Grifo Tinto Ariana · 2024

A moon-like landscape between Africa, the Atlantic and Europe. This is the scenario that greets the Canarian wine enthusiast: an area that has yet to be discovered on an international level but which holds a treasure trove of oenological jewels that is unique in the world. Very old vines, purely island types, on soils that were once arid and inaccessible, and today, especially after the eruption of the Timanfaya volcano in 1730-36, covered by a lava layer of lapilli that has made them an earthly paradise for quality viticulture.  On Lanzarote, the bush vines, often free-standing because phylloxera does not attach itself to them, are protected from the Atlantic currents in basins dug out of the black soil and surrounded by semi-circular dry stone walls. To walk along La Geria, Lanzarote's picturesque wine route, is to immerse oneself in this lunar landscape as far as the eye can see, seemingly designed by an alien geometry. While Lanzarote retains this rustic vein - up until a few decades ago, the harvest was carried out on dromedaries - Tenerife appears more evolved and receptive, thanks also to modern tourism: at the foot of Teide (3715 metres), the main wine denominations of the Canary Islands are developed.  Mineral salinity, sulphurous, and oceanic salinity, marine. Large day/night temperature ranges. Amazing altitudes. Manual, hard, impervious, heroic work. Small and tiny producers who extract every drop of must from two-hundred-year-old vines. The local Malvasia (dry but also sweet or amabile) emerges with mineral power and incredible aromatic qualities, and together with Palomino and Moscato d'Alessandria it produces the bulk of the native whites. Among the black grapes, the Listán Negro stands out, which produces delicate reds and rosé wines, but which is now being experimented with in ageing or blended with Shiraz to obtain greater body and opulence.